Needle Knowledge Pays Off for Embroiderers

The needle is one of the smallest parts of an embroidery machine, yet it is one of the most vital components.
Dec 8, 2008

By Steven Batts, Contributing Writer

The needle is one of the smallest parts of an embroidery machine, yet it is one of the most vital components. It's kind of like your little toe; you don't think about it a whole lot, but when something isn't right with it, it causes you a lot of pain.

Needle selection is critical to the quality of your embroidery. Knowing the right type of needle to use for a specific job is important in many ways. It can affect the look of the embroidery, how well the design sews and how it impacts the garment.

The two factors to consider when choosing a needle are the size and the point. Needle size is the diameter of the needle. The point refers to the tip of the needle.

Size Matters
There are two standards for measuring needle size. One standard uses a simple number — much like shoe size or dress size. Common needle sizes in this standard are 10, 11 and 12. The other standard determines a needle name by its metric diameter. For instance, a needle that is 0.75mm in diameter is termed a size 75.

The two systems overlap. For example, a size 11 needle is the same as a metric size 75. This is why you often see needle sizes listed with both measurements, such as 70/10, 75/11 and 80/12. It's common to hear either or both numbers used to refer to needle size.

So what is the best needle size to use? Well, that depends on what type of work you are doing. For most jobs, a size 75/11 works fine. If you are working with intricate designs or looking for a little more detail in your designs, you might consider going down a size in needle to a 70/10. By making a smaller needle hole, you can get better definition in your design.

Many embroiderers to use a 65/9 or even a 60/8 when sewing very small letters (less than 5mm tall). Along with the needle change, they also might go down a couple sizes of thread to a size 60 thread.

The tradeoff for greater detail with a smaller needle is reduced needle strength. For instance, if you sew a lot of caps, a 75/11 needle might be a better choice than the general-use 70/10. The smaller needle would be more prone to break when sewing on the seam or through the coarse buckram of caps.

You would think on thicker items you would want to go up in size, but in reality it usually helps to go smaller. Smaller needles create less friction when penetrating thick items such as leather. The result is better sewing quality and performance whereas a thicker needle, like an 80/12, may stick in thicker material and can even cause stitching problems.

To the Point
But needle size is only half of the issue. The right needle point is just as important if not more so. The wrong needle point can cause stitching problems or even ruined garments.

There are two basic types of needle points: normal and ball point. Normal point needles are commonly referred to as sharps, which pretty much describes the tip. They can be used on any woven good and when sewing thick materials or any material they may be hard to penetrate such as leather.

Ball point needles have a rounded tip. This helps insure that the needle will not cut any fibers in the fabric. They are designed primarily for knit goods to prevent any fiber from cutting and creating a run in the knit which results in a hole in the garment. As you can see, it is important to use ball point needles on knit goods.

Personally, I like a light ball point. It has a rounded tip necessary for knits and a thin enough point for most other goods. This way I am not changing needles every other run to make sure I have the right needle point in there. I only change it when there is a drastically think material to deal with.

If you are unsure of what type of needles you have, it is usually printed on the package of the needles. It will have the model of the needle (Typically DB x K5 for commercial machines) and the size followed by a letter designation for the tip. Normal points are labeled with "R", "RG", or "RS", although some brands make no designation for normal point needles. Ball point are labeled FFG or SES for light ball points, FG or SUK for medium ball point and G or SKL for heavy ball points.

So whatever your application, take the time to set up your machine with best needle to suit your needs. Needles may be small but they make a big impact on your embroidery and on the fabric.

Steven Batts, a 14-year veteran of the embroidery industry, is a regular speaker at the Imprinted Sportswear Shows. He owns Righteous Threads Embroidery, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery, machine maintenance and repair, and consulting. Call him at (336) 379-9380 or e-mail righteousthreads@gmail.com.