Find Relief from (Thread) Tension Headaches

June 22, 2009

By Steven Batts, Contributing Writer

Thread tensioning is such a big part of the embroidery process. If it is set correctly, the machine will purr and the design will look beautiful. If the tension is off, it can make you pull your hair out and say things you shouldn’t.

There are numerous gadgets created to measure thread tension of both the top thread and the bobbin thread. If you have a favorite, and it works for you, that’s great. Just make sure to use it regularly to keep your tensioning set correctly.

Call me old school, but I don’t use any of those gadgets. Instead, I follow three basic rules to keep my thread tensions on track — and you can easily learn and use the same techniques.

Here’s how:

Rule 1: If the top stitching looks fine, the tension is probably fine.

There’s a lot of truth in the old saying, “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” And that applies to Rule No. 1. In terms of tensioning, unless there is a problem visible in the stitching of the design, your tension is probably OK and you don’t need to make adjustments.

The crucial aspect of Rule No. 1 is recognizing problems. Watch for top thread that’s looping or bobbin thread popping up to the top side. If looping is visible, the top thread tension is probably too loose. If bobbin shows up on the top side, the top thread is too tight. Adjust accordingly.

Rule 2: The ratio of bobbin thread to top thread should be 1:3 or 2:3.

Most embroiderers know the “1:3, 2:3” rule. This applies primarily to satin stitches. On the bottom side of the embroidery you should see a third of bobbin thread in the center and a third of top thread on either side.

This is a guideline more than a law. You mainly are avoiding extremes on the bottom. As long as there is some bobbin showing, but not so much that it might pop up on top, the tension is within tolerance. It doesn’t mean it is perfect, just that the tension is within tolerance and no adjustments are needed.

In general, I find that the less I mess with my tensions, the better my machine runs. If I check it and make sure I stay away from extremes on the bottom side, I am usually good to go.

If you do need to adjust tension based on Rule No. 2 observations, remember that you tighten tension to make more bobbin show on the bottom, and loosen tension to make less bobbin show.

Rule 3: Factor in the bobbin.

Rule No. 3 can be tough for embroiderers to understand, but it really is quite simple. Tensioning is a tug of war between the top thread and bobbin thread. Ideally, you want this contest to end in a tie — that’s the right balance of top and bobbin thread. If one side starts to win, it pulls more of the other team to its side.

You know you have a problem with a bobbin when the same problem shows up on multiple needles. For instance, if you have bobbin thread showing up on top on every needle, your bobbin tension is too loose. The bobbin thread tension lost the tug of war and ended up on the top side.

By contrast, if you have looping on several needles, instead of tightening top thread tension on each, you might try simply loosening the bobbin tension. I know that sounds weird, but to get the same effect on the top, you do the opposite to the bobbin.

Proper tensioning doesn’t have to be complicated. These simple rules will get you out of most messes and may prevent you from getting into a few more. I hope it will help save your hair from being pulled out, too.

Steven Batts, a 14-year veteran of the embroidery industry, is a regular speaker at the Imprinted Sportswear Shows. He owns Righteous Threads Embroidery, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery, machine maintenance and repair, and consulting. Call him at (336) 379-9380 or e-mail righteousthreads@gmail.com.

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