8 Tips for Embroidering with Metallics

June 9, 2008

Think of metallic embroidery thread as the equivalent of the foil effect popular on screen printed T-shirts sold at retail today. It adds a similar trendy look whether used in concert with other apparel decoration applications or alone.

It also has the power to transform an ordinary embroidery design into an extraordinary one on a range of apparel, adding pizzazz to cheer and dance outfits on the one hand and adding a touch of class to high-end fashion on the other. (See "Add 'Zing' to Your Designs," Impressions, March 2006.)

Yet, for all its virtues, metallic embroidery thread can be a challenge to use. Here, then, are some tips that may help you achieve trouble-free metallic embroidery.

1. The design must be programmed correctly for metallic thread. It is essential that your digitizer know the thread type and size, along with the fabric it will be stitched on, so that he can adjust stitch length and density accordingly. Putting too many stitches in the same location will cause excessive thread breakage.

2. Be aware of metallic thread's design limitations. It is advisable that letters under 5 mm in height should not be stitched.

3. Make certain that your equipment is in excellent running condition. Because the metallic wrapper is rougher than normal embroidery threads, inspect the thread guides to be sure they're free of rough spots. Check and clean the bobbin cases, and when switching to metallic from another thread type, start with a new needle.

4. The size of the needle is very important for high productivity. For example, Robison-Anton recommends that its "J" Metallic should be stitched with an 80/12 will assure the best results. If there's fabric damage, you can use a 75/11 needle, the company says. (As thread specifications may vary, check with the manufacturer to be sure you're using the correct needle for the particular brand. — Ed.)

5. As metallic is less pliable than other thread constructions, you'll need to readjust thread tensions. Metallic thread will usually run as well as rayon, provided that tensions are run looser than normal. Fabric type and weight, along with the execution of the design, will determine how loose or tight tensions should be set. A sample run is recommended on the production fabric before attempting to run the production order.

6. The thinnest bobbin thread also is recommended.

7. Use a soft material and backing whenever possible. Hard or stiff materials can be too abrasive to the metallic thread.

8. Adjust the machine speed to the work. A slower speed will facilitate the production of more difficult designs.

Source: Robison-Anton Textile Co., a division of American & Efird Inc.


Metallic thread like Robison-Anton's "J" Metallic can make an otherwise mundane embroidery design come to life, adding sparkle and shine as it does on this jeans pocket.

Helpful Hint

Metallic thread, as well as other thread in certain applications, can feel rough next to the skin. To solve this problem, you can use a special heat seal backing material such as Gunold USA Inc.'s Cover the Back, a polyester, circular knit mesh with polyamide adhesive coating. "Cover the Back is used mostly for children's wear," says Cynthia Kinnison, marketing/trade show coordinator for the Kennesaw, Ga.-based company. "Men like it on their shirts, too. It's big on polos." Additional possible applications include lingerie and sports apparel or other instances where the embroidery may irritate the skin. — R.L.


Special heat seal backings like Gunold USA's Cover the Back are designed to provide a smooth surface to prevent the embroidery from rubbing against sensitive skin.

8 Tips for Embroidering with Metallics
Think of metallic embroidery thread as the equivalent of the foil effect popular on screen printed T-shirts sold at retail today. It adds a similar trendy look whether used in concert with other apparel decoration applications or alone.
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