New Threads Provide Paint for the Embroidery Palette

The latest embroidery threads include unique materials designed to create special eye-catching effects, improve production efficiency and open new markets.
April 29, 2008

By Richard Lebovitz

It's easy to marvel at the technical sophistication of today's computerized embroidery machines and overlook the more mundane role of thread in the embroidery process. Yet, recent developments we've uncovered at the Imprinted Sportswear Shows this spring are enough to remind us that without thread, there would be no embroidery, and that the thread manufacturers are as keen on introducing innovations to the embroidery industry as the machine manufacturers.

By its nature, modern machine embroidery requires both artistry and technical know-how to produce aesthetically pleasing and production-friendly designs. The developments we've taken note of are designed to help you achieve both goals. They go beyond the introduction of new colors and weights to include unique materials designed to create special eye-catching effects, improve production efficiency and open new markets. Here's a quick rundown of the new paints for your palette.

Fil-Tec Inc., known for its Magna-Glide brand of magnetic pre-wound bobbins, has introduced a line of U.S.-made polyester embroidery thread.

According to Chris Meyers, marketing manager for the Hagerstown, Md., company, its new Glide thread, constructed of advanced trilobal polyester, has two key characteristics that distinguish it from conventional polyester thread: less stretch and less color variation.

Less stretch means lessening or eliminating looping and puckering, and more capability to sew small lettering and fine details, Meyers says.

Less color variation means more consistent tension from color to color, thereby reducing the time spent adjusting tension and increasing the time spent sewing, he adds.

Meyers also says Fil-Tec is using various advanced color management techniques to match Glide colors to Pantone colors. According to Meyers, the thread will be available initially in 60 colors with more on the way.

Technically advanced polyester thread today is the thread of choice for high-speed embroidery machine operation and for commercial laundry applications where chlorine bleach is used and color fastness if of concern.



Fil-Tec Inc.'s trilobal polyester Glide thread, a new entrant in the embroidery market, has less stretch and less color variation than conventional polyester thread, according to the company.

Robison-Anton Textile Co., the Fairview, N.J., division of American & Efird (A&E), now offers a line of Super Safe flame retardant, Nomex embroidery threads that it developed from its experience manufacturing flame retardant sewing threads.

The thread is available in 20 colors, with more possible if the demand is there. "We have 44 colors in the master library," says Max Tripp, product line manager — embroidery.

According to Tripp, Super Safe is equivalent to No. 40 embroidery thread and requires very few adjustments to make it run well. He says it has a very soft hand but a "matte look." "Nomex is very hard to dye," he explains.

Tripp says flame retardant thread is applicable "anywhere protective clothing is used and anywhere you're worried about [fire] flashing." He says the uses include safety personnel such as fire and police, military and motorsports such as NASCAR. As reported when Madeira USA, Laconia, N.H., introduced its Fire Fighter brand of Nomex-based embroidery thread last spring, flame-resistant thread also has applications in the electrical and petrochemical industries.

Another new thread that may be of interest to embroiderers embellishing denim is the company's D Core indigo, which consists of a polyester core wrapped in cotton. "I expect it to be used mostly on jeans pockets," Tripp says. "It fades just like the jeans do." The thread comes in Tex 24 and Tex 40 sizes, which according to Tripp, approximate #40 and #30 embroidery threads. "The Tex 40 will require a larger needle," he adds.

Looking ahead, Tripp says Robison-Anton is testing a UV-resistant version of its Super Brite Polyester thread. "It's an involved process — more than just adding a UV coating," he says. In addition to outdoor apparel, Tripp expects the new thread to be used for embroidering boat cushions, flags and a variety of outdoor recreational products.




D Core indigo, which consists of a polyester core wrapped in cotton, is one of several new threads Robison-Anton is introducing this year. According to the company, it fades just like the jeans on which it's most likely to be embroidered.

Madeira USA is now selling magnetic-sided bobbins designed to maintain uniform tension control throughout the life of the bobbin. The result, according to the Laconia, N.H., company, is the elimination of backlash and yardage loss at the end of the bobbin as well as fewer bobbin changes. The bobbins are pre-wound with 100% continuous filament polyester thread.

The company also announced that a number of its threads had received Oeko-Tex certification. Madeira's Classic Rayon, 100% polyester Polyneon, FS/Supertwist and wool-blend Burmilana threads are all certified as free from harmful levels of more than 100 substances known to be dangerous to people and the environment.

"We've provided the Oeko-Tex guarantee to our clients for many years," says Hajo Voeller, Madeira USA’s president. “Now our clients in the United States…are requesting embroidery threads that meet the highest international standards. Our Oeko-Tex certified threads deliver a comprehensive and verifiable safety guarantee that they can pass onto their customers.”

Oeko-Tex is an international association of 14 independent textile research and testing institutes that work with more than 8,000 companies in 84 countries to ensure that their products are tested for potentially harmful substances prohibited and regulated by law, as well as for chemicals known to be harmful to humans but not yet regulated.

According to Alice Wolf, Madeira's marketing communications manager, the company will be introducing a brand new thread this summer called Frosted Matt. "It came about from the branded goods manufacturers looking for a true, matte thread, with the washing properties of a polyester," she says. "It is completely colorfast, holding up to prolonged sunlight as well as chlorine bleach." Wolf describes the thread as a ceramic core coated with a soft and highly resistant polyester. "The ceramic content renders it completely non-reflective," she adds.





Madeira USA is introducing a brand new matte thread this summer with the washing properties of a polyester thread. Called Frosted Matt, it consists of a non-reflective ceramic core coated with a soft polyester.

Gunold USA has introduced Glitter/Holoshimmer thread, a thin, flat ribbon-like polyester film metallicized with an aluminum holographic layer to give it a shimmery, brilliant reflectiveness, according to the company. Cynthia Kinnison, marketing/trade show coordinator for the Kennesaw, Ga.-based company, recommends its use to embroider objects like stars or to achieve special effects on women's jackets, cheer uniforms or dance apparel, where eye-catching designs and pizzazz are desirable.



The shimmery appearance of Gunold USA 's Glitter/Holoshimmer thread makes it well suited for embroidering objects like stars or to achieve eye-catching effects on women's jackets, cheer uniforms or dance apparel.

Gunold also offers another new thread for the embroiderer's creative toolbox. According to the company, its Mono 80 is a very thin, but tear resistant, monofilament made of 100% polyester and available in clear or smoke. The company says it's ideal for applications where you don't want the thread to show, such as when fastening cords and sequins. But it also suggests its use for special effects. For example, when used to stitch over embroidered or printed designs, Mono 80's transparency lends a glistening effect. Gunold recommends use of its multi-purpose needle 75/11 SES for best results.



Monofilament thread like Gunold USA's Mono 80 can be used to stitch over embroidered or printed designs to achieve special effects.


EnMart is a new full-service embroidery supply company based in Traverse City, Mich., and formed by Ensign Emblem Ltd., parent company of the Ensign Group. The company describes itself as the "premiere U.S. distributor for Hilos Iris machine embroidery thread," manufactured in Monterrey, Mexico. According to the company, it formed a partnership with Hilos Iris two years ago, offering suggestions to improve on the product based on Ensign Emblem's 34 years of embroidery experience with patches and direct embroidery.

"Our first idea was simply to use the thread in our Ensign plants for our own consumption. As time went on, however, we discovered that Hilos was looking for ways to expand their presence in the United States," says Kristine Shreve, EnMart's director of marketing.

At that point, which was in the summer of 2007, Ensign's Gayle Zreliak decided to form a company that would sell Iris machine embroidery thread and EnMart was born.
 
"We don't just sell Iris thread, we use it as well," says Shreve.

Hilos Iris thread is available in polyester, rayon and metallics. Ensign chose to use Iris thread partly because it's manufactured in North America using raw materials manufactured in the United States, says Shreve. In addition, the company liked its characteristics.

"One thing that makes our polyester stand out is the sheen of the thread," she says. "We've done tests where we present people with our polyester and rayon Iris thread and ask them to tell the difference between the two types. Most people can't see any difference."

This thread also has great strength, is smooth running and has great clarity of color, she adds.

Shreve says Hilos Iris also is one of the few companies that don't re-dye their thread. "If a dye lot doesn't meet quality standards, the substandard cones are disposed of and are not re-dyed a darker color," she says. "This helps to ensure the integrity of the thread color."

According to Shreve, EnMart will be introducing some new products later this year.



Polyester thread construction and appearance have come a long way. According to Hilos Iris distributor EnMart, people can't tell the Hilos Iris 40-weight polyester from the company's rayon.


Richard Lebovitz is the editorial director of Impressions magazine.

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