Tips for Embroidery on Performance Fabrics

Aug 31, 2009

By Steven Batts, Contributing Writer

It seems like nearly all new products introduced today are made of some type of moisture-wicking performance knits. The most common shirts are being replaced with these new fabrics. While they may be nice for the wearer, many embroiderers have found moisture-wicking fabrics to be downright wicked to deal with.

All the characteristics that make them comfortable to wear, particularly at this time of year, also make them more difficult to embroider. They are typically soft, pliable, thin and stretchy. While items with any of these individual traits can be dealt with, they can be more trouble when you combine them into the same fabric.

First of all, performance knits are stretchier than regular knit goods, such as piqué or jersey. They also are thin, which means any additional stabilizer that is used will show through the shirt like a pack of cigarettes stuck underneath a tight-fitting T-shirt.

The material also is very soft and pliable. That means the fabric will want to move around as it is sewn if it is not framed nice and taut. The only problem is that because the material is so stretchy, it cannot be framed too tightly because the fabric will be distorted.

What is an embroiderer to do with such difficult material? Simply follow the same principles for embroidering any other item, but pay attention to a few details.

First of all, when framing, you should always have the fabric smooth, but taut. The backing should be tightly framed, but the fabric should be smooth with no wrinkles. This should keep it from being too tight, thus distorting the garment.

Secondly, stretchier materials require more stabilization. This doesn’t mean more and heavier cutaway stabilizers. Use a sheer cutaway, which offers the stabilization of a cutaway without the bulk. You can even use multiple layers of tearaway, which should tear cleanly enough not to leave a shadow through the material. My personal preference is to use one layer of sheer cutaway and one layer of tearaway.

There are a few ways to combat fabric movement. Try using spray adhesive and adhere the stabilizer to the fabric before sewing. For some, however, this may be too time consuming. The other way to deal with it is in the design.

Designs for performance knits should be laid out somewhat similarly as cap designs, which work best if they are embroidered from the center out. Similarly, for performance knits, avoid sewing back toward an area that already has been embroidered, as the fabric has a tendency to push up a wrinkle. Sewing from the center out pushes all the wrinkles away from the design.

Underlay is really important for designs created for performance knits. The underlay secures the material to the stabilizer, keeping it from moving and wrinkling as much. It is best to underlay as much of the design at the beginning as possible — even if it means creating an underlay under several sections or colors at a time. This accomplishes two things: First, it secures more of the fabric so wrinkles will be less of a problem. Secondly, the heavier underlay will mean the top stitching can be less dense. If the top stitching is less dense, it should help maintain the softness of the fabric, making it wear better.

Performance knits can help stretch your performance as an embroiderer. As you practice and experiment with these knit goods, you will stretch your skill to new levels.

Steven Batts, a consultant with 17 years experience in the embroidery industry, owns Righteous Threads, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery and machine maintenance services. Steven regularly leads seminars at ISS shows and is an industry speaker and consultant. For more information or to comment on Steven’s article, e-mail righteousthreads@gmail.com.

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