Outerwear Breaks the Mold

Soft-shell construction, year-round usability and high-tech features top 2008 trends for jackets and outerwear.
Sept 1, 2008

The Three Seasons Jacket from GAME Sportswear features a heavyweight Taslon nylon shell and is resistant to wind and water.

Technological advancements are flourishing across many industries. Apple just released its second-generation iPhone, and Philips recently demonstrated a 3-D television that doesn't require viewers to wear plastic anaglyphic glasses. Even apparel is becoming more and more futuristic. Workout gear featuring heart rate monitoring and motion sensors is now in stores, and "smart clothes" that fend off insects and mask cigarette smoke are in the pipeline.

While such cutting-edge apparel hasn't hit all retail outlets yet — let alone wholesalers — there's still strong demand for performance technology and detailing throughout the clothing world. Wholesale vendors in jackets and outerwear say this category, in particular, is witnessing continued advancement in designs, fabrications and detailing.

"As in all marketplaces, technology is changing the options that are now available," says Jacqui Spangler, senior buyer for Preston, Wash.-based SanMar Corp. "The fusion of multiple performance features into one fabrication has changed the look and functionality of outerwear." Jessica Oleson, sales administrator for Dri Duck Traders, Overland Park, Kan., backs up Spangler's assertion. She says, "The trend that continues to grow the fastest is jackets with technical features, such as soft-shell, lightweight, waterproof jackets that are multi-functional and can be worn all year round."

SURE-BET STYLES
If there's one style most wholesale vendors say they can't keep in stock, it's the soft shell. "Soft shells got a great response when we first came out with them [and are still doing well]," says Gina Gaudet, director of design, Charles River Apparel, Medford, Mass. "People like how they feel — they're modern and sleek." She explains that the popularity of soft shells has a lot to do with their construction. "Higher-end outerwear stores are using bonded fabrics, which is very 'techie,'" she says. "The 'techie' look attracts a large audience — there's a lot of 'techie' wannabes out there. Everyone wears Patagonia [styles], but I'm sure all of those people aren't outdoors skiing."

Margaret Crow, marketing director for S&S Activewear, Bolingbrook, Ill., couldn't agree more that demand for soft shells is on the rise. "We have soft-shell styles from several manufacturers, and these are extremely popular for men and women," she says. "They are such versatile jackets [that are] great in the rain or cold, easy to pack or carry, good looking and cost less than big, heavy jackets. They also look terrific embellished and are easy to decorate."

System jackets are another style that's doing well in the outerwear market, according to James DeHoff, national sales director, Heritage Sportswear, Hebron, Ohio. "System jackets offer a great deal of versatility and four-season wear, making them an economical choice," he explains.

System jackets usually are a three-in-one garment, consisting of a shell with a zip-out polyester fleece lining, each with enough features to be worn alone. Vendors say they serve niche markets rather than the mainstream end user. "When I go into retail [stores], I don't see system jackets so much," Gaudet says. "A lot of people get system jackets and don't even take them apart." Kathy RisCassi, design director for Dickies, Fort Worth, Texas, says system jackets are particularly important in workwear markets that are looking for high-visibility styles, while Dri Duck's Oleson says these styles are very sport-specific and are mostly used for skiing and snowboarding.

According to Oleson, Dri Duck's most successful outerwear style is its Cheyenne jacket. "It's a washed cotton canvas jacket with a hood, and is designed with workwear needs in mind," she says. Lifestyle pieces also are doing well for Dri Duck, including its Crossfire Power Fleece, which is made from 80% cotton/20% polyester.

For GAME Sportswear, Yorktown Heights, N.Y., polyester warm-ups are among the best sellers. "There seems to be a cycle to the market, and these polyester warm-ups [that are popular today] are similar to what we sold well years ago," says Les Handler, executive vice president. "Maybe it's because the retro look [is coming back in style.]"

While eco-friendly T-shirts and tote bags are becoming more standard offerings from wholesalers, eco-friendly jackets aren't as common. Several vendors think it's just a matter of time before outerwear catches up. "Everyone is trying to put their thumbprint on the eco trend," Gaudet says. "There's more recycled polyester fleeces out there, and [some vendors] are coming out with 100% organic cotton canvas jackets."

DEFINITIVE DETAILS
SanMar's Spangler credits lifestyle appeal as a top reason behind the company's most successful jacket styles. "Outerwear has to serve as more than just protection from the elements, it has to accommodate the wearer's lifestyle," she says. "Versatility and customization are important in all aspects of building an outerwear design that meets customers' needs. We try to look at every detail — even the smallest — that adds to the overall design and function of a garment, including two-way zippers, media portholes, adjustable molded tab cuffs and ergonomic zipper pulls. Some details may seem small, but they make the difference between a have-to-wear and want-to-wear piece."

While soft shells are the most coveted outerwear styles, pockets — and plenty of them — are the most sought-after detail. "Pockets are very important," says Dickies' RisCassi. "In the future, we're adding inside pockets to all our jackets as an added bonus." Charles River's Gaudet notes that end users always look for added tech-related details. "Customers are still looking for a cell phone pocket," she says. "And an iPod holder." She adds that rollaway and zip-off hoods are important features, and welded pockets and smooth-face zippers also add modern appeal to outerwear.

Performance is another evolving area within the outerwear market. "Comfort is the bottom line," says Heritage's DeHoff. "Water-repellant and waterproof [capabilities] are important features in outerwear, [and for] more casual jackets, moisture-wicking properties are in high demand." Crow says performance characteristics are definitely improving in the outerwear market. "We're seeing waterproof, anti-static and breathable characteristics in jackets," she says. "Customers are always looking for wicking material," GAME's Handler adds. "[The end user] really wants the garments to be soft and breathable."

Luckily for decorators, ease of embellishment is top-of-mind when manufacturers design new styles. "[We recognize that] products with embroidery access can be hooped without sewing through the lining, [which makes] the finished product look better," DeHoff says.

CLASSIC COLORS
Core colors are still at the heart of the jackets and outerwear business. "Black is always the classic bestseller, but warm neutrals like chocolate brown and taupe, as well as cooler grays and dusty blues, are expanding what the basic core palette has traditionally been," Spangler says. "Bolder colors are stronger than ever this season, with tomato reds and citrus greens adding freshness to outerwear."

Similar to color trends in T-shirts, fashion hues appeal more to women in terms of outerwear than to men, according to Gaudet and Dickies' RisCassi. "It seems as though men are looking to buy one coat in a neutral color that will last for years," Dri Duck's Oleson explains. "Jewel tones in blue, green and purple have taken off for women," Gaudet adds. "The plum in our soft shell is big, and our red trench coat [for women is popular.]"

For more information or to comment on this article, e-mail Susie at smcmanus@impressionsmag.com.

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