Shopping for a Garment Graphics Cutter

Not all garment graphics cutters are created equal. Learn what features to look for in a cutter that will meet all your needs.
Feb 1, 2008

You'll get more value out of a cutter that allows you to feed it scrap material that's not on a roll. If you're using a 19-inch wide roll of material and a customer requests a 15-inch wide number, you want a machine that allows you to load the 4 inches of leftover material into the cutter later for another job. (Photo courtesy of Imprintables Warehouse.)

By Josh Ellsworth, Contributing Writer

No matter what type or size decorated apparel business you run, you are bound to have a certain segment of customers who place orders for just a few pieces. In many cases, producing small orders is not cost-efficient or practical, and you find you must turn these customers away. However, by investing about $1,700 for the purchase of a garment graphics cutter, you may find you can profit from small jobs and maybe find new markets as well.

A garment graphics cutter is a cutter originally designed to cut vinyl and is a standard tool in sign shops. However, in recent years, vendors have introduced a wide range of new materials specifically designed for use with a vinyl cutter in apparel decoration — hence its new name “garment graphics cutter.”

In Part I of this series, we discussed the many opportunities cutters can offer and the range of materials they can cut. Now, let’s explore the features that make cutters ideal garment decorating machines.

Choosing a Cutter
Size. Cutters range in size from 8 inches to about 60 inches wide, with 24 inches representing the standard for the decorated apparel industry. Larger, 40-inch cutters aren’t necessary for apparel decoration, while smaller, 12- to 15-inch cutters may limit the type of work you can do. Keep in mind that you want a cutter that can handle the width of the materials you want to cut.

Materials. When shopping for a cutter, look for one that can cut heat-applied film and twill, as well as cut around images on transfer paper. For cutting out transfer paper, the cutter requires an optical eye and the ability to receive sheets as well as rolls. For cutting twill, find out what material thickness the machine will accommodate. This requires going beyond a quick look at the spec sheet. It may entail seeing a video, getting a reference or seeing the cutter in action. For instance, some cutters with 500 grams of down force can’t cut tackle twill, while others with only 130 grams of down force can. Pay attention to the details and make sure cutting twill will not void any warranties.


When choosing a cutter, you’ll want to decide ahead of
time what types of materials you’ll want to cut. Not all
cutters can cut twill, as shown here. (Photo courtesy of
Imprintables Warehouse.)

For cutting heat-applied film, make sure that the cutter can cut very thin materials. This also may require a personal demonstration, since this ability is reliant on various factors that deal with keeping the film flush against the cutting strip as it moves throughout the cutter. Though this may sound crazy, some cutters will cut only thicker materials such as sign vinyl. You could be limited in your heat-applied film choices if your cutter handles only thicker materials. This is important because the thinner films have more of the screen print type finish that many customers demand.

Speed. Speed is a factor, but it’s not the most important feature to consider. Suppliers may tout their machines’ speediness, but reality may present a different picture. Always test the machine yourself to see how well it performs. (Speed may not be an issue at all for many shops, unless they’re doing extremely large signs or banners.) 

Style. There are two types of cutters: a flatbed cutter, which is designed to cut fabric, and a roll cutter, which is more versatile. As the name implies, roll-fed cutters accept rolls of material (as well as pieces), while flatbed equipment allows you only to load pieces of material. The main difference between these two cutters is that the former is designed for continuous feeding, allowing you to walk away while it’s working. Many high-volume shops use both types of cutters. Choosing the right cutter is a matter of understanding what materials you’re likely to use.

Cost Issues. It’s also a good idea to see how well the unit handles scrap material. If you’re using a 19-inch wide roll of material and a customer requests a 15-inch-wide number, you want a machine that allows you to load the 4 inches of leftover material into the cutter later for another job. Garment designs often are small and this process lends itself to low quantities. So you will have opportunities to use small pieces of materials that might otherwise go to waste.

Going Shopping. Now that you know what to look for in a garment graphics cutter, let’s go shopping.  Expect to spend approximately $1,700 on a cutter that meets the mentioned criteria and services the applications discussed. (Besides the cost of the cutter, you’ll also want to budget for a heat press and materials.) Certainly the idea of saving money and investing in an inexpensive cutter is an appealing one, but be aware that most cheaper units compromise at least one of the features that are needed. Low-cost units may work fine for sign cutting, but they may be unable to handle the varying thickness of materials required for apparel decoration.

When you’re shopping for a unit, remember to take the specs with a grain of salt; ask to see the machine in action. See what types of materials it can cut, making sure that it will handle the types of material you’re likely to use, and look at some finished results to see its quality. As it’s working, evaluate the machine’s speed, force and versatility. As with any equipment investment, ask about training and warranty, and evaluate the dealer you choose.


A garment graphics cutter is a cutter originally designed to cut sign vinyl, but also is ideal for cutting all kinds of heat-applied graphics. The typical cutter-owning decorated apparel business has a 24-inch wide cutter. (Photo courtesy of Imprintables Warehouse.)

Evaluate Package Deals. When shopping for a cutter, you will have the option to buy one that is bundled with software, a heat press and start-up materials. While this is a great way to save a few bucks, be sure to evaluate each component of the package. As we will discuss later in this series, materials vary greatly in production capabilities as well as finished results.

Some materials may cause problems that can slow production or leave you with an unhappy customer. The heat press also is a very critical component that can affect the quality and productivity of your shop. You don’t want just any heat press. You’ll want to evaluate the pros and cons of different models and brands before making a final choice. A package that doesn’t include the types of equipment and materials you need may save you money in the short run but cost you time and create extra hassle in the long run.

Before you invest in any equipment, consider taking a trip to a trade show to do your shopping. A trade show is a great place to compare units and see exactly what they can do. Prior to the show, conduct extensive research on the applications that you want to provide and get some samples together from various suppliers. Take these samples around with you and see everything first hand. If you can’t make it to a show, consider sourcing a supplier online and sending your samples to them to cut and send back.

Whichever machine you choose, you can expect to increase your business by accepting orders you previously turned away and offering new services to existing customers.

Josh Ellsworth has been in the garment decoration industry for eight years, working for the past six years as an account representative for Imprintables Warehouse. He manages his own blog at joshellsworth.com, entitled Heat Press Yourself. His Web site offers weekly articles, tutorials and videos that explore that art of T-shirt decoration with a heat press.


Click here to view all the articles in the Garment Graphics Cutter series.


Savvy Questions to Ask When Shopping for a Cutter
What is the maximum width the machine will cut?
Will it accept pieces or scraps? If so, what is the minimum width?
Will it handle thick and thin materials?
Does it have the ability to trim around transfer paper?
How many feet of material can you feed through it continuously?
Are the offset, down force and speed adjustable?
How are they adjusted? Is there a digital display?
What is the warranty?
Is the warranty voided if you cut thick materials such as twill?
What happens if the machine goes down? In warranty? Out of warranty?
Is there training available?
Who can I call or where can I go for technical support?
How many people are on staff who can offer support? (i.e. Will you be reliant on one person being available?)
What software is included?
What are the replaceable parts and prices?
Does the machine have a stepper or servo motor? (Servo is more industrial.)

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