EMBROIDERY

A Look at Specialty Stabilizers

October 11, 2010
By Steven Batts, Contributing Writer

In the last issue, we looked at the basics of stabilizers, primarily exploring the tearaway and cutaway varieties. For many years, those were the only kinds that were available to most embroiderers. Today, however, there are many choices that allow embroiderers to do many different things.

I previously mentioned no-show mesh cutaway, which prevents the backing from showing up through the front of the garment and has a softer feel. Let’s take a look at a few other different types of stabilizers that can help embroiderers tackle various jobs.

Self-Adhesive Stabilizers
This is probably the most popular stabilizer in the “specialty” category because it allows embroidery on a variety of items that were simply too difficult to hoop before. The concept is simple: Instead of hooping the item, just frame the stabilizer, expose the adhesive and stick the item to the stabilizer.

Self-adhesive stabilizers are of the tearaway variety, so when your work is done you can simply pull it off the backing, allowing the embroidered part to tear away.

This method has become so popular that many embroiderers use it as their main framing process, especially home-based entrepreneurs and hobbyists, who may find getting hoops on and off the machine more difficult. Some frame manufacturers, such as Fastframes, Colville, Wash., and EMS/Hoop Tech, Fairview, Ohio, make frames solely for this process. These flat metal frames include an area where the adhesive stabilizer sticks to the bottom of the frame. This takes up less room inside the garment and is easier to work with.

In a high-production setting where conventional framing is much faster, adhesive backing is good for use on those jobs where hooping the items are too difficult or they are so delicate that hooping them can damage the material.

Cap Backing
Cap backing was invented in the mid-1990s as a result of the popularity of low-profile unstructured ball caps. Because these caps don’t have fused buckram lining, they not only need stabilization, but also something stiff to hold the cap in shape while it is being embroidered.

Before this type of stabilizer became available, some embroiderers would use the cardboard that is placed inside the cap before shipping as a substitute. While not good for the machine, it helped hold the shape of the cap long enough to be embroidered.

While it is not needed on structured caps, cap backing very helpful on the still-popular unstructured caps, as well as on the sides of a cap in a 270-degree frame.

Dissolving Stabilizers
Stabilizer that can be dissolved after use is another type that is becoming popular. This has long been an issue when embroidering items that will be seen from both sides, or for freestanding embroidery like lace.

I have seen water-soluble toppings and backings that look like sheets of plastic. I have even used sheets of water-soluble topping on items that needed all pieces of stabilizer removed once the project was finished.

Today, more options are available. One such product is a washaway/tearaway stabilizer that doesn’t necessarily remove completely when torn away, but is dissolved by water after one or two washings. This is appealing to environmentally conscious people and is perfect for items such as towels and throws, where the backside isn’t as important, but is still visible.

Some stabilizers will instantly dissolve in warm water. These fibrous backings provide better stabilization than water-soluble topping and still dissolve completely, making cutwork and freestanding embroidery easier.

Using dissolving stabilizers allows you to embroider substrates — such as window screens, tulle and other loosely woven materials — that were never before possible.

While we may use regular cutaway and tearaway stabilizers for everyday jobs, it is nice to have the tools to embroider items that aren’t so common. Specialty stabilizers give you that ability. Interestingly enough, the out-of-the-ordinary jobs are the types I enjoy the most.

Steven Batts, a consultant with 17 years experience in the embroidery industry, owns Righteous Threads, Greensboro, N.C., which offers digitizing, embroidery and machine maintenance services. Steven regularly leads seminars at ISS shows and is an industry speaker and consultant. For more information or to comment on Steven’s article, e-mail righteousthreads@gmail.com.



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