Needle Knowledge Enables Easier Embroidery

Familiarize yourself with all the properties of various needle types to ensure that you always make the right choice for any job. February 28, 2011
By Frank Gawronski, Contributing Writer

In addition to a variety of needle manufacturers, there are many needle systems, sizes and points that will fit our embroidery machines. These properties are designed not only to fit the current class of machines, but also to address various thread sizes and sewing applications. However, all embroiderers must know these properties, as well as how to choose the right needle for a particular application.

Due to the diversity of embroidery processes, this article will focus only on the commercial multihead embroidery segment. While the following information applies to the home and schiffli (loom) embroidery markets, the system numbers and descriptions are not the same. Please contact your local suppliers for applicable needles. Also, the chenille process, which does not involve a lock-stitch machine, uses a very unique “hook” needle type and will not be covered in this article.

Before we can discuss the technical properties of a lock-stitch embroidery needle, we must define the various parts of a needle. The names and definitions of these parts are as follows:


Shank — The thick-end section of the needle that is inserted into the machine’s needle bar and is held into place with a clamp and set screw.


Blade — The narrow-end section of the needle that passes through the fabric during each stitch.

Shoulder — The transition area between the shank and the blade.


Butt — The blunt end of the needle at the free end of the shank.


Tip — The sharp end of the needle at the free end of the blade.

Point — The section of needle blade between the eye and the tip.

Eye — A perpendicular hole through the blade, located near the tip, through which the thread is passed.

Scarf — The short, dished-out section on the back side of the needle blade slightly above the eye. This is where the rotary hook point passes to catch the upper thread loop and, in doing so, form a stitch.


Long Groove — A groove cut along the front of the needle blade from the shoulder to just below the eye. It allows upper thread to pass quickly and freely as the rotary hook first pulls thread around the hook basket and bobbin case.

Now that we have established the proper nomenclature, we can look at the technical aspects of a typical embroidery needle.

Needle Naming
All vendors make the same variety of needles and define them with three basic properties: system, size and tip. Some needle manufacturers use these universal naming conventions, while others have chosen unique property code names. For example, Schmetz uses a Catalogue Number and Organ (CANU) number, while Gross Becker uses its own unique lettering designations for needle tips. Let’s explore each of these properties, as well as the range of specifications and their corresponding applications.

A needle’s system describes its physical dimensions, indicated by the overall length of the needle; length and diameter of the shank; distance from the butt to the eye; shape of the scarf; and design of the blade. Some of these dimensions will dictate which machine class the needle is designed to fit, while others determine performance features of the needles.

You may have noticed that needle packets sometimes have several system numbers on them. Historically, this illustrates the lack of standardization among early sewing machine manufacturers. Each of these numbering systems represents the same needle and will fit in your machine. For example, 16 x 231, DB x 1, 287WH, SY2254, 1738 and 16 x 95 are the same needle.

Needle System Specs
A typical commercial embroidery machine can accommodate at least five different needle systems: DB x K5 (16 x 257), 287 WKH, DB x 1 (16 x 231 and 287 WH), 1738ES and DB x 7ST. While each of these systems fit most of the commercial machines, they have unique design properties for specific applications.

DB x K5 (16 x 257) — This is probably the most common needle in commercial embroidery, with its two most popular features being the blade construction and eye size. The blade is designed to penetrate dense, difficult materials and resist bending or deflection. Deflection usually is caused by the heavier upper thread tension often associated with denser materials. Needle deflection can cause thread and needle breakage.

To accomplish this task, engineers have virtually divided the blade length into two sections. The first half of the blade’s length is the needle size and the second half, up to the shoulder, is one size larger. For example, if the diameter of the blade at the eye is a size 75, it widens to about a size 80 about half the way up the blade, which resembles an extended telescoping automobile radio antenna.

In performance, this blade penetrates dense fabric by cutting the hole and then slightly enlarging that hole as the needle reaches the bottom of the stroke. This minimizes the phenomenon of fabric grabbing onto the needle as it is withdrawn. If the fabric should grab the needle, it can cause skipped stitches, or “flagging.” The machine operator can easily see this when the material is flaps up and down during sewing.

This needle blade is not recommended for light knits or delicate materials, as it has a tendency to tear larger-than-necessary holes for the stitches and leaves poor quality embroidery.

The enlarged eye also is a plus. It enables the thread to flow easier — back and forth — through the eye of the needle. This yields better loop formation, tighter stitches, fewer thread breaks and better overall quality.

This needle is good for any woven fabric, such as twill, poplin, denim and canvas.  It also is good for most baseball caps, heavy towels, thick lined jackets and tote bags.

287 WKH — This needle has two discernable features: The point is shorter than the other needle systems and the blade has one uniform diameter over the entire length of the blade. This “shorter” point originally was designed to give more “dwell” time out of the fabric when sewing very thick or layered fabrics. The uniform blade diameter was designed to create only one hole size and thus apply less stress on the fabric’s fiber.

This system is good for piqué and mesh knits, lingerie and any very thin or delicate material.

DB x 1 (16 x 231 and 287 WH) — An older style that pre-dated the DB x K5, this needle is the same as the DB x K5, except it has a standard-sized eye. The stepped blade diameter is excellent for penetrating dense fabrics, but the eye is not as easy on the thread during stitch-over-stitch sewing. This needle has virtually been replaced by the DB x K5, and very few embroiderers use the DB x 1 today.

1738ES — This needle also fits most commercial embroidery machines and features a different design approach to resist needle deflection. This blade design also is less destructive to the fabric fibers. Instead of stiffening the needle with a “telescoping” blade design, this needle uses a single-blade diameter with a change in the blade-to-shank-length ratio. Simply put, the shank is longer and the blade is shorter. This way, you get the benefits of less deflection and smaller holes in the fabric. The result is better quality stitching with fewer needle and thread breaks.

This needle is widely used to embroiderer the leather uppers on cowboy boots.

DB x 7ST — This needle system was designed to compensate for some of the performance deficiencies found in metallic thread. Due to the linear tenacity of metallics, consistent loop formation behind the needle eye is a problem. This needle is engineered with an elongated eye of about 1.8mm in length, as opposed to a standard 1mm length. Most other needle dimensions are similar to a DB x K5, except for the longer eye.

However, before buying this needle to solve all your metallic issues, consider the following technical concerns:

The eye is struck on the same axis as other needles — This means that of the additional 0.8mm of length, the top of the eye is now 0.4mm closer to the bottom of the hook point. If the machine is properly tuned, this needle is interchangeable with other needles and works very well. On the other hand, if the hook point is set low in the scarf, you will encounter repeated thread breaks and shredding. You may have to retune your machine to use this needle.

Needle weakness — Because the eye is longer, the amount of metal left around the eye is less, and thus weaker, than other needles with smaller eyes. Due to this fact, this needle may not be appropriate for finished caps or dense materials.

If you use a lot of metallic thread, this needle system may be a good option to increase performance and quality. If your metallic work is spotty, consider using netting over the cone to regulate dispensing of the thread and/or using a larger needle size. Also, be aware that metallic thread is not interchangeable with polyester or rayon. It requires special digitizing concessions and usually more upper thread tension.

Other Needle Properties
Needles come in a plethora of sizes to accommodate a variety of thread and thread sizes. Needle size only dictates the diameter of its blade. The other needle dimensions are dictated by the system number. All needle packages are marked with not only the system(s), but also the size and type of tip.

Most needle manufacturers display the size in two different scales: European  (metric size) and the U.S. equivalent (Singer). Most manufacturers use a convention of displaying the European size/US equivalent  (i.e. 90/14, 80/12, 75/11). To determine the actual needle blade size, simply move the decimal two places to the left on the European size. For example, a size 75/11 has a blade diameter of 0.75mm. Some people simply choose to call a 75/11 needle a size 11.

The rule of thumb for choosing a needle size is to consider the thread size, fabric being sewn and the design or application. Generally speaking, you should choose the smallest needle that accommodates the thread size. Most embroiderers use a size 40 thread. This thread can be sewn with a size 70/10 or a 75/11. Finer thread can use smaller needles and heavier thread should use larger needles. If you change size drastically, you may have to retime the rotary hook or possibly replace the needle plate with a larger hole.

Most needle manufacturers offer a selection of about five different tips, which are designed for different fabrics and/or applications. A two- or three-letter code usually is displayed on a needle pack after the size. Tip types as follows:

Acute (SPI) — This tip is very sharp and is recommended for leather and very dense or coarsely woven fabrics where design resolution is required.

Sharp (- - -) — This is one of the most common needle tips used by most embroiderers. It is chosen for all woven or dense fabrics, and is good for finished baseball caps.

Light Ball Point (SES) — This tip is another that is commonly used. It has a slightly rounded end and is recommended for knitted fabrics. This tip is designed to roll off the knitted fiber so that it does not create holes in the fabric around the embroidery.

Medium Ball Point (SUK) — This tip is rounded and intended for heavy knits or elastics.

Heavy Ball Point (SKF) — This tip is very rounded or blunt and intended for elastic materials.

Some manufacturers offer a needle with a Teflon coating that is designed for dense or abrasive fabrics. It works well for a short period of time; however, the Teflon usually wears off after about one to two days of use. If you change needles often, it could work well. If not, you may want to look at the Titanium needle.

Some manufacturers offer a needle with a Titanium Nitride coating that is intended for applications where either very dense material is involved or adhesives are being used, such as with appliqués. This coating helps to resist the accumulation of adhesives on the needle and is believed to dissipate heat better than a standard needle. Thus, this needle type resists the effects of very dense fabrics.

Each time you set up a job, consider the best needle for that application. With today’s embroidery machines supporting as many as 15 needles per head, consider a variety of needles rather than just a variety of thread colors. This will keep you from doing a lot of unnecessary needle changes while enjoying the benefits of using the right needle for the job.

Frank Gawronski is a speaker, writer and consultant who started in the embroidery industry in 1975. He founded Embroidery Educational Services Intl., an independent embroidery training and consulting firm, in 1988. For more information or to comment on this article, e-mail Frank at frankg@embroideryedu.com.



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