Innovation in Istanbul

European T-shirt Factory pushes technology, quality control and ingenuity to new heights.
December 01, 2005

Creativity, efficiency and high-quality work are standards all apparel decorators strive for. At European T-Shirt Factory (ETF), those standards are the driving force behind a mission to operate the most efficient and complete T-shirt operation possible. The company's roster of retail clients is a who's who of household names that includes Nike, Adidas, Mavi Jeans, French Connection UK, JC Penney, Quiksilver and others. Recently, the management team opened its doors to show the world how ETF achieves its goals.

A favorite part of my job as editor in chief of IMPRESSIONS is to get out in the field and see what apparel decorators are up to. When I was offered the chance to gain some insight into European screen printing trends from this cutting-edge decorating facility, I jumped at it.

ETF, which now employs more than 380 people, was founded in 1996 in Istanbul, Turkey to meet the screen printing needs of ETF Textile Investing, a vertical textile manufacturer that produces millions of tubular T-shirts annually using 18 knitting machines, an extensive cutting operation and numerous quality checkpoints. By controlling the quality of the screen printing as well as the apparel production, the company is able to meet and exceed its high-profile customers' needs.

BUILD IT AND THEY WILL COME

ETF's Printshop opened more than a year ago and owners Can and Sanem Dikmen, along with associate general manager Samir Sadikoglu, were anxious to show their clients' textile designers, graphic artists and merchandising executives just how their apparel is made. The open house I attended, held in late September, was the ideal opportunity to give factory tours, and to educate clients about screen printing basics and design fundamentals and techniques. The Dikmens wanted to give their guests an understanding of the possibilities available when planning new lines.

To facilitate the educational portion of the day, ETF brought in internationally known industry consultants Charlie Taublieb, Taublieb Consulting in Denver, and Mike Beckman, MB Screen Printing in West Linn, Ore. Also, yours truly was asked to give a presentation on the state of the U.S. decorated apparel industry. Taublieb spoke on the importance of quality control and gave information on the parameters involved in printing on dark garments, an enduring retail trend on the global market. Beckman, the genius behind the invention of high-density ink, was on hand to reveal unique special effects ink applications that can keep lines fresh.

The 60 or so invited attendees were more than impressed. After a brief tour of the knitting facility, we participated in a hands-on visit to the printing factory where guests found out just how the ETF staff manages a production capacity of more than 1 million prints per month.

To hit its target efficiency rates, ETF's production managers post (and its employees follow) exact prepress and textile workflow diagrams visible to all. In addition, dedicated workspace for each task adds to the shop floor's efficiency rates. A closed-system screen room, separate washout and reclaiming rooms, two ink rooms, and various quality-control stations make for a safe work setting that runs like a tight ship. Executive offices, an impressive showroom and art stations are housed separately.

AIMING HIGH

ETF spares no detail or expense when it comes to quality control and inspection, from the raw materials phase all the way to warehousing finished goods, which are shipped to customers directly from the facility. The metal-free factory is committed to no lost needles and boasts a QC lab where exact weight and shrink testing are monitored to make sure each piece meets the highest standards. In-line and final inspectors ensure that all printed garments are tested in crocking fastness, cracking, color and print placement, among other tests. Also, the company's equipment is controlled and calibrated frequently to maintain print quality standardization. All documents and test results are then archived for six months, says Sadikoglu.

As ETF gains a reputation for quality and efficiency, the firm has become a leader in using special effects inks for its clientele's competitive design needs. Distressed printing, simulated leather and denim looks, shadow base, gels, chino inks, burn-out designs, glitters, sugar crystals and caviar beads are just some of the effects used in daily production. The company is mastering high-density effects, incorporating the ink in innovative logo work that puts them in a league of their own. Although 50% of ETF's work is done with standard plastisol inks, the other half is made with water-based inks — a much higher percentage than would be typical in a comparable U.S. operation. (I found the use of water-base inks is a strong trend in the European decorating scene.)

Winning Work

If you're getting the impression that ETF's work is a cut above in terms of quality and creativity, you're right. ETF took top honors in this year's IMPRESSIONS Awards' competition, enjoying two first place spots, the People's Choice award and the Best of Show Grand Champion honor.

Beckman, who works extensively with Rutland Plastic Technologies in Pineville, N.C., to develop specialty inks, advises the ETF production staff about new ink technologies including the Soft Density ink from Rutland used for the Grand Champion entry, "Istanbul Rooster." Other entries featured images that emulated Scotch and duct tape, simulated snakeskin and interesting brush effects.

The open house attendees were able to see some of these unique designs being created. Key staff members gave detailed information about the different jobs running on each press so we could all get an idea of the myriad variables involved in printing just one award-winning shirt. To their surprise, attendees were invited to print their own T-shirt on a manual press, giving them an even better understanding of the process and a fun souvenir of their visit.

Screen printing technology continues to advance and it's interesting to keep up with trends on the international decorating scene as a way to garner ideas for your own decorating needs, no matter how big or small your shop. A glimpse into the work being done at ETF's Istanbul factory is testament that apparel decoration remains an exciting industry where limitless creativity drives innovation and success.